Much has been said about the City of Joy since Mr. Lapierre epitomized this amalgamation of paradoxes in his writings. I am not going to talk about the inherent deficiencies pervading the fabric of the city. Neither am I going to talk about the political idiocy in the city/state. And I am definitely not going to talk about Mamta di and her fandom not to mention the 3 decade alliance between the communists and the state. This is strictly a post based on my experiences with the city herself.
It was 2006 and I just completed my 2 months stint in Bhubaneshwar. At the end I was given the option to choose my work location from a drop-down of 7 choices. I had to choose 3. My options were Chennai (For the Sambhar & Vada), Pune (My best friends) and Mumbai (Life in the fast lane – sort of) in order of preference. What did I get – Kolkata. Obviously there was no logic in the process, just a placater to make people like me appreciate the organization for giving free will ad instantly taking it away. All I said to myself was “Its your goddamn destiny buddy. Live with it.”.
The reason I was skeptical about Kolkata was a combination of ignorance and prejudice. Obviously it was behind her cousin Mumbai in progress, thanks to Communism, unionism and sheer laziness of the public and state machinery. Decay was the one word that came to my mind when I thought of Kolkata. But, little did I know that this city would give me an excellent career, a fantastic experience of culture and heritage, a hearty bunch of immigrants and locals who would later shape my life in umpteen ways. And not to forget the wonderful roshogolla and jhaal muri (I would’ve said maach but I’m not really a big fan of seafood so I can’t really comment on that.)
When I first arrived at Howrah Station following were the sequence of events that hit me like a gust of hot wind.
1) Hit by a wave of agoraphobia.
2) Haggling with the opportunistic taxi walas.
3) The taxi wala sensing I was new in town and most importantly not a Bengali or a Bihari.
4) Getting ripped off by the driver.
5) Confusion between the 5 star Hyatt Residency and the 1 star Aayash residency (Yes that’s the name. I swear.)
6) Struggling to understand Bengali from Steps 1 thru 5
I took me approximately 2 months to get acclimatized to the Bong culture. Slowly I started picking bits and pieces of Bangla as I had to know at least the basics to chat with my maid/cook. As days stretched into months, I slowly started relaxing and giving into the spirit of the Bengali brotherhood. That’s the secret of survival in this city. For a non-Bengali, this place will thrust its influence from all directions. You do not want to fight that. I know of many people who did that and eventually spent long and unhappy days.
You love it or hate it, Kolkata will always be Kolkata.

